Classification and use of cosmetic ingredients

Each country in which cosmetics or skin care products are manufactured have their own legislation in place, yet most countries follow the guidelines and rules as specified by the CTFA (USA).

Part of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) function is to formalize the INCI names of each ingredient, and to assign it a "classification", as well as a "functioning group".

On this page

• Classification
• Use
• INCI names

Classification

All ingredients have been divided into a chemical classification system, but this classification system by the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) does not infer, warrant or guarantee that the ingredient assigned to a specific class will perform in a specific way, nor does it mean that such an ingredient has been "approved" by the CTFA, or any other regulatory body in the USA, Japan, EU or elsewhere.

The chemical classification done by the CTFA is done on the basis of their chemical functioning group, and although most ingredients are multi-functional, they are included in only one class unless their secondary use is also important in cosmetics.

Use

All ingredients are also divided into "uses" but this does not really help the public much, as the uses are restricted to a certain amount of simplification and does not always elucidate the reason why a specific ingredient is included in a formula.

It is for this reason why we have spent time to inform our clients on each product page, why a specific ingredient is included in a specific product, in order to make more sense of the reason why an ingredient is included.

For instance

• Since puberty we all know that the topical application of oats helps to manage pimples, yet the use as specified in the INCI dictionary is that of it being a "bulking agent and absorbent".
• It has been proven without a doubt that tea tree oil has wonderful anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties, yet the use described in the INCI dictionary is as an  "antioxidant and fragrance ingredient".

INCI names

In order to create a system in which all countries use a global reference, it is required that manufacturers use the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) name for a specific ingredient, in order to avoid confusion.

This uniform use of labeling names is accepted in all scientific and medical communities, as well as regulatory bodies, since it promotes a common understanding of the ingredient in question throughout the world.

The use of INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) names are legally adopted by the United states of America, Japan, United Kingdom and all other European Union member states, Bulgaria, Brazil, Costa Rica, Lithuania, Malaysia, The Philippines, Poland, The Russian Federation, Singapore, South Africa, Switzerland and Thailand.

There are many benefits of a uniform labeling system, since it provides a transparency to consumers and is also helpful for the correct use of scientific information and identification.

There are still unresolved issues regarding the uniform labeling system when it comes to botanical ingredients, where the EU (Colipa, the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association) insists on using the genus and specie as the label name, and the USA still wanting the common name. For this reason some manufacturers (like ourselves) use the genus and specie name, followed by the common name in parenthesis.

This method seems to satisfy most countries and applicable legislation.